Please enjoy this encore episode of The New Man Podcast.
Are you waiting to get your confidence up before trying something scary?
Do you feel like you need to hide your fears from yourself and the world?
And how does avoiding risk zap your energy and kill your enjoyment for life?
In this encore interview, we learn how Big Wave World Champion Surfer Greg Long nearly drowned and then went Christmas shopping the very next day. While his body may have recovered quickly, his fears and confusion about living took a far greater toll.
In this interview:
- What it’s like to drown in huge surf at Cortes Bank
- What to do when you lose your fire
- How to take the power away from our fears
- Why the best preparation in the world won’t protect you from getting knocked around
- Why avoiding risk and fear is killing you
- How ego keeps us playing small
- The trap of attaching our identity to what we do in the world
- Getting stuck in jobs or relationships that don’t serve us anymore
- Controlling our thoughts
- Letting go of negative feelings
About Greg Long — Big Wave World Champion
Greg Long is by any standards one of the sport’s most celebrated big wave surfer. In a career that now spans two decades Long, 35, has been awarded virtually every title in the big wave riding arena, including multiple XXL Global Big Wave Awards including Biggest Wave, Ride of the Year and Performer of the Year, as well as two WSL Big Wave World Championship titles in 2012 and 2015.
His list of accolades also include the SIMA “Waterman of the Year Award”, a National Geographic “Adventurer of the Year” nomination and has been voted one of Men’s Journal magazine’s “50 Most Adventurous Men”. In 2012 Long was featured in the Fox Pictures Hollywood release “Chasing Mavericks” both performing surf stunts and as a story character.