Do you feel like you need to hide your fears from yourself and the world?
And how does avoiding risk zap your energy and kill your enjoyment for life?
Big Wave World Champion Surfer Greg Long nearly drowned and then went Christmas shopping the very next day. While his body may have recovered quickly, his fears and confusion about living took a far greater toll.
In this interview:
- What it’s like to drown in huge surf at Cortes Bank
- What to do when you lose your fire
- How to take the power away from our fears
- Why the best preparation in the world won’t protect you from getting knocked around
- Why avoiding risk and fear is killing you
- How ego keeps us playing small
- The trap of attaching our identity to what we do in the world
- Getting stuck in jobs or relationships that don’t serve us anymore
- Controlling our thoughts
- Letting go of negative feelings